A question that I receive from many homeowners is “can my floors be sanded?” or “Are they salvageable?” - more often than not the answer is yes! The available thickness (or “wear layer”) of solid plank flooring to be sanded, is 1/4”. Under favorable conditions about 3/64” of the wear layer should be removed; this is assuming there are no deep scratches, the wood is in fairly decent condition, and an aggressive sanding is not needed. Typically, a good rule of thumb is not to remove more than 3/32” of the wear layer. This generally removes deep scratches, cupping, and previous sanding errors. Keeping these measurements in mind, we could infer that under the worst conditions, removing 3/32” of the wear layer during sanding, the flooring could be sanded 3 times and under perfect conditions 5 times. The amount of wood sanded off during the refinishing process greatly depends on the skill of the flooring professional; one doesn’t want to remove too much material preventing a future refinishing nor do you want to leave any unsightly imperfections. These measurements are subjective as I’ve sanded a floor over a century old and it still could be refinished again. I’ve also seen brand new floors that were so poorly sanded after initial installation that they could only be sanded once more. Hiring a competent wood floor contractor could quite possibly get you another century out of your wood floors!
Janka Hardness Scale
Everyone wants the most durable finish for their floor, but in reality, the finish is only as strong as the wood it’s applied to. The Janka Hardness Scale is used to measure the hardness of any given species of wood. The scale measures the force required to embed a 0.444 inch steel ball half way through a sample of wood. The higher the number, the harder and more dent/ scratch resistant the wood is. Surprisingly everyday items can cause some serious damage to your hardwood flooring. For example, high heeled shoes are one of the biggest enemies of hardwood floors, especially softer species such as pine and walnut. When all the pressure of the shoe is concentrated in the small point of the heel instead of evenly distributed throughout the sole, the heel causes dents. The most common wood flooring found in the United States, red or white oak, has a rating of 1290 and 1360 respectively. Other common species found in flooring are hard maple (1450), hickory (1820), walnut (1010), southern yellow pine (870), and Brazilian cherry (2350). This is another reason why it is ideal to have a skilled contractor due to their knowledge and expertise with dealing with all types of hardwoods.
Flush Mount Hardwood Floor Vents
Flush mounted vents are a great update and even though it is a small detail, they seriously change the look of your home and hardwood floor. They are constructed from the same species of wood as your floor, installed prior to sanding, then sanded flat and finished as an extension of your floor. The removable insert allows for cleaning just as in a traditional metal vent and can even be equipped with a damper. These provide a seamless and modern look; however, they do require expertise and skill to install. The slightest measurements are crucial to provide a perfect fit.
Historic Meets Modern
Over the past century it is astonishing to see how building materials and flooring installation materials have changed. In this photo we see the original maple flooring and nail pulled from a bakery built in 1920 in Columbia, SC. This building has been on the US National Register of Historic Places since 1987 and I was contracted to replace some flooring damaged by a flood. Operating as a bakery for decades this building was later renovated into a hotel and is currently being used as a studio apartment building.
The original flooring is 1” thick while the modern flooring is the standard ¾”. Notice the tightness of the growth rings on the older wood, these were milled from trees fell from old growth forest (not farmed). Present day lumber is farmed to grow as quickly as possible to be harvested which leads to increased sustainability and accountability for our naturally renewable resources.
The nails used in older times were square nails, known as cut nails, that were driven individually by hand. Modern pneumatic tools allow us to reduce time and labor when nailing. Contemporary nails are designed to be used with these tools for efficiency and they also have barbs on them to improve gripping strength. They are thinner which reduces the amount of material used and also is easier on wood. I often wonder what the craftsmen of years past would think of the present-day materials, techniques, and tools that are used today. I love being able to restore historic flooring to its original beauty. Wood floors truly are an heirloom feature.
Thresholds vs Header Boards
What is a header board? A header board refers to a piece of hardwood flooring laid perpendicular to make a transition and is typically found in a doorway. In this particular case a bathroom remodel had left a gap between the new tile and existing 80-year-old hardwoods.
The existing ends of the boards were left “wild” meaning they were at different lengths. There are basically two options for dealing with this: installing a threshold or a header board. A threshold is factory-milled wood that sits on top of the two types of flooring while a header board is cut and installed into the wood floor and sanded flush.
The easiest way to complete this transition is to purchase a threshold as they can be installed quickly. Installing a header board is a bit more technical and requires some skill. First a precise line is cut in the existing flooring. The old ends of the floor are removed revealing a perfectly straight line to work off. In this case the new tile was ¼” lower in height than the ¾” hardwood. From there a custom header board was milled. A ¼” rabbet (a recess or groove) was milled and a 45-degree miter finished this piece beautifully. The board was put into place under the existing door jambs and slightly overlapping the tile for a custom clean look.
Both options can make a great transition between rooms depending on preference and style.
Threshold (left) and Header board (right)
Wood... It's not just for floors.
The natural feel and tones of real wood can add interest to any space. Take this counter top for example- originally stained Formica which was chipping, nicked up, and far from sanitary. Just a little work transformed the look and feel of this kitchen. The fresh wooden counter top was sanded then finished with a food-safe penetrating oil that allows for prep directly on them. If something were to mar or burn them the top can easily be sanded and refinished for generations of use. Enough already with product destined to go to the landfill in a matter of years. A renewable resource that is ethically harvested and 100% natural is clearly the best choice!
Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder
All milled wood is graded according to its overall appearance. In general hardwoods are categorized as “select” (most desirable), “number 1”, “number 2”, and “number 3” (least desirable). Certain “defects” such as knots, color, and varying grain orientation can be desirable in different instances. Here a hunting cabin has #3, or “cabin grade” southern yellow pine. This wood was milled off the owner’s land and milled into flooring. In addition to the connection of the wood being sourced from the property, the owner enjoyed the color and imperfections of the wood. This goes to show that what a wood mill considers to be less desirable can have amazing results!
Restore don't replace
Century old maple hardwood floors in a historic building in the Five Points neighborhood of Columbia, SC. Clients wanted to leave character. We did a lighter sanding to showcase burn marks, existing paint, years of wear, etc. Refinishing a hardwood floor is always a better option than replacing.
